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Letters from 68 degrees, Kiruna

Blog at 68 degrees

What's happening here at 68 degrees, a bed and breakfast in Kiruna.

web page: www.68degrees.se

Sakura of the north

Here at 68 degrees Posted on Sat, November 28, 2015 18:22:41

I like to watch snow settle. How it falls, spreads itself in wide hanging swathes on the top of balconies, sprinkles itself over a wire fence, sweeps along the ground in giant waves, hangs precariously from rooftops, drapes itself elegantly along branches, and, later, how it covers every single twig in a sparkling muffle of white, pulling branches into gentle curving structures that sway in the wind. We watch the snow fall, but then we have to decide where to remove it.

When we first moved here I was so excited looking out over the garden covered in snow. Just think, all this snow is ours! Our neighbour thought me very foolish, knowing the reality.Yes, ours, meaning that when it’s in the way you are responsible for moving it. At first I only wanted to remove the bare minimum, not even wanting to pile the snow up if it disturbed the look of smooth, untouched areas I admired from the house. But I’ve learned over time – three long, hard winters have made me a realist.

My particular favourite has been snow on trees, and, blissfully, there has been no reason to remove this. It hangs over us, at worst threatening a shower of cold snow from time to time when the wind blows, but otherwise obstructing nothing. Snow-covered trees against a blue sky are a thing of beauty. Even in the darkness of winter the moonlight makes the trees shine.

Snow on trees is a kind of sakura, a blossom that celebrates life. Like people in Japan admire cherry blossom, I’m drawn to looking at trees with hanging snow. Although there is nothing of the spring in them, there is something of the gloriousness of living. It’s hard to celebrate this with hanami, picnicking underneath the trees in company, drinking sake, gazing up through the white billowing branches at the blue sky – though the idea, in theory, appeals.

Like the cherry blossom, snow blossom is short-lived, which is a part of its appeal. It isn’t long before the wind blows it all away, or the temperature rises enough to disturb its grip. It inspires you to enjoy it while you can.

Not always though. This year we returned to trees bending heavily with snow, more than we’d ever seen. Birch trees up here are tough, and their ability to flex and bend help them to survive, but it was clear that such an abundance of sakura was just too much for some of them. Everywhere you could see trees that had broken in half with the weight, or lost their tops, or if already leaning they had broken at the roots as the snow pulled them over.

This is what happened to the birch trees in the middle of our garden. I’d thought the angle of them rather jaunty and characterful before, but jauntiness led to their demise. Elsewhere around our house trees were leaning over in a way that was pretty to look at, but to the tree was life-threatening.

I admired the sakura for just one day, knowing it wouldn’t last. This time it was me that broke the spell. I stood underneath a birch tree and looked up through the snow blossoms into the blue sky – did I really have to do this? But I had already reasoned that releasing them from this icy grip was a humane decision.

I began to hit a tree with a broom. I felt the eyes of passers-by swivelling in my direction – it was suspicious behaviour, I could see that. But I cared less about that than I did about the feeling that I was using violence against a thing of beauty. A mass of cold snow fell down the back of my neck in revenge. But then I felt the tree released from its burden, the thin branches begin to bounce back up to the sky.

Flushed with success I moved on to the next bent-over beauty, and the next. The more I whacked the birch trees, and the more the snow cascaded down, the more I enjoyed it. More and more trees returned to the sky. There are certainly some weird and wonderful ways to entertain yourself in Kiruna in November. ‘Tree-whacking’ – could it be the next big thing after dog-sledding?



Obstacle course

Here at 68 degrees Posted on Sat, November 28, 2015 12:29:41

We’d been away, off and on, for quite a few months. It wasn’t winter when we were last here, and now it was, so we were expecting a few obstacles in our way when we first arrived at the house. Primarily, snow in the way.

Snow in the way of reaching the front door. When we arrive from the deep south we are dressed for in and out of warm trains and airports and home in a taxi, not for digging a path to the front door in minus 14 degrees for half and hour. The first view from the taxi as it pulls up the end of Tvärgatan is full of hope. Has she? She has. Our dear neighbour, elderly and with mobility problems, has kept a path open for us. We could not be more grateful.

But as we reach the front door, which in our house is actually the back door, our optimism drains away as we look down over the garden and garage and see that our two large leaning birch trees have fallen. The weight of the snow, frozen on the branches, finally bent them too far. The trees narrowly missed the house as they fell, and for that we are grateful, but apart from our sadness at losing them it’s clear they now form a major obstacle. They are across our parking space, and – more worryingly – blocking one of our main routes for removing snow.

We get through the front door, turn off all the open taps and switch the water on, and look around for firewood. Did we remember to leave some ready cut? We did. The house takes 24 hours to warm up after this length of time, and the ‘kakelugn’ – a sort of firewood radiator – is a crucial part of the process. We’ll keep our coats and hats on for the next few hours at least, and we’ll have to keep physically active.

Not difficult. Snow in the way of the garage. It’s is a long way from the road to our garage, downhill, and our car is sitting down there, snug and dry, insulated by a warm pile of snow on all sides. We need a car here, running a bed and breakfast, and we need it soon. The first lot of shovelling is the hardest, because you have to turn around on the spot, trying to force through a space to take the snow. As you pivot round you eventually begin to free up the passage for snow, and soon – well, within a couple of hours anyway – you are actually managing to clear snow from the driveway.

A rough assessment of how long it will take – at this rate, given that there is the additional obstacle of fallen trees, with two people working shifts, and providing it doesn’t snow more in the meantime – is currently three days. Coffee breaks are required to keep the spirits up, but they are coffee breaks without cake, indeed without lunch, because there’s no food in the house. A trek through the snow brings bread (and other things) to the table and suddenly there is much to be cheerful about.

We do wonder why we came here, at this time of year, at our time of life, when the world has been made so easy by advancing technology and high standards of living. We could’ve been sat in a warm flat somewhere, further south (no snow, and if there was, someone else would be responsible and a machine would move it), easy public transport on our doorstep, no physical effort required. Everything could be done at the touch of a button, and instantly.

It was like that when we were in Stockholm. So easy. I read in the paper they were discussing putting in additional recreation facilities in the large open area nearby. Rows of raised objects at varying heights alongside the walking path. An obstacle course, for people wanting to get a bit of exercise as they pass through. You couldn’t make it up.