Iron ore has always been transferred by rail from Kiruna to Narvik on a track built with huge difficulty through the mountain area. It has been a point of contention between the company and the state department responsible for rail networks in Sweden that this track is still a single track, which severely limits how much iron ore can be delivered, and therefore how much can be mined, and how much profit the company can make. It would be a big undertaking to make it a double track, but this is what LKAB (the mining company) have been requesting for years.
This winter there was a major derailment on the line, primarily due to weather conditions. It took a couple of months to clear the derailment and repair the track and during this time no trains could travel on the line, no iron ore was delivered or sold, and no passenger trains through to Norway. When it was opened again last month, an agreement was made to allow LKAB to have sole use of the track to try and speed up its delivery of iron ore, so there are currently no through passenger trains operating on the line.
It is a surprise to some of us that such a priority exists – company profits before transport accessibility – but there it is. Now it’s Easter there will no doubt be fewer visitors in the area than usual. People may fly to Kiruna, but then, how to get to Abisko? They can take a very expensive taxi, or a fairly expensive bus (but only if they’ve already booked a ticket).
Let’s not call it a problem, let’s call it an opportunity. There must be other ways for a true adventurer to reach the mountains. Well walk or ski, yes, but you won’t get there by Easter if that’s your goal, it’s a long way. What you’ll need is a mindset trained by images of the wild west. Steam trains trundling through landscape, outlaws jumping on and off rickety old wagons, shoot outs on a wagon roof. Why not hitch a ride on one of the many iron ore trucks heading your way?
What you’ll need is some camouflage – the usual jungle kit can be adapted by sticking bits of grey on the green (apply at the local tourist office, if you can find it). You’ll need to sneak up on the wagons when they’re resting in a siding near the mine, or perhaps approach a little further along at Krokvik. Choosing your moment you can hoist your bag over the top, haul yourself up and climb in. It’ll be just like in the Westerns, and you’ll be hoping no-one plans to hold up the train on the way because you haven’t packed your revolver.
Fortunately iron ore is transported in the form of round pellets, so you can lie back in relative comfort on the trip. Getting off at the right stop might be difficult. If there are red lights along the way then it will be easy to leap off onto the track. Otherwise you’ll have to launch yourself up at a wooden beam as you pass through a tunnel, and hang on until all sixty wagons have passed beneath you. Then drop down discretely and be on your way. A trip to Abisko has never been this much fun.
